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Thread: Expanding 3D printing.

  1. #1
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    Default Expanding 3D printing.

    Just about to send an order for buildings for my next project, and was wondering if any of you 3D printer owners had considered knocking out any buildings and other accessories like jetties, rocky outcrops, enplacements etc, for our scale of ships?

    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Not quite on topic, but this is the year that got me interested in printing. Will be grabbing a resin printer very soon. Always saw printing as something that made crude looking objects good for industrial tasks, but resin printing now rivals anything outside of what a professional shop can pull off, at an obscenely low price. 1/1200 terrain is one of the big impetuses I have to print, and there are many beautiful models out there. Such incredible detail with essentially no print lines

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    You might be able to reverse engineer Japanese kitmaker Pit-Road's 1/700 "European Buildings" set and scale it down to 70%... IIRC the buildings in there are typical 1700s-1800s continental.

    I'd like to see some 3d designs built up from the official terrain piece designs...
    --Diamondback
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    Right on DB. That is an excellent idea, official terrain piece designs. I believe you have hinted at this sort of thing to Ares in the past.
    Rob,
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    If you do get around to producing any Joe please let me know.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    There are a number of sets of small scale buildings on Thingiverse and other 3D modelling sites that work well in 1/1000. What is lacking is gun batteries. I've kncked up a couple but they are more aimed at mid to late 19th century games. I can have a go at some earlier examples though

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    That would be an excellent addition to our range Dave.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    The main problem I’ve had with terrain is that it’s too big for resin printers.

    Most of the houses I’ve printed have been aimed at my 18th century GNW in 15mm.

    I guess I could try to make some of them possible to print in smaller scales too. Since houses made for larger scales often have thin walls they don’t print well if too small.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TexaS View Post
    The main problem I’ve had with terrain is that it’s too big for resin printers.

    Most of the houses I’ve printed have been aimed at my 18th century GNW in 15mm.

    I guess I could try to make some of them possible to print in smaller scales too. Since houses made for larger scales often have thin walls they don’t print well if too small.
    At small scales a pseudo solid or solid is better than a multipart with interiors even when assembled into a single model. It is faster and stronger to print on FDM, and stronger/more successful on resin.

    My experience of printing large models at small scales is that these are often successful if the floors are thick, or structurally unimportant, as walls can be expanded horizontally when slicing to ensure printability (I have done 28mm timber framed houses (Baytree and Boarhunt) at 1:1000 without major problems with a sufficient horizontal expansion, and a touch of excel to compensate for the enlargement overall from that expansion of the wall thicknesses.

    It would be easier and more trivial to setup the print job with properly sized models for the smaller scales, but with good use of the slicing options almost anything can be made printable. (Weak/thin floors can be retained even below the 'safe' height, and expansion of walls required reduced by printing at an angle, to use horizontal extent to 'thicken' flats, and the vertical extent to 'thicken' thin walls. Some care needs to be taken with overhangs and getting support 'in' to an area which may be compact, some care with the form of the upper surface and visual banding. Otherwise there is a considerable flexibility in what scales 'general' models can be printed at.

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    Have you looked at The Wargame Vault http://www.wargamevault.com ? There are all sorts of things there including card models and 3D printing files for buildings and terrain in different scales.

    For example here is a modular gun emplacement. It is for 28mm models but it suggests that it can be rescaled.

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    It may be found at https://www.wargamevault.com/product...rs=0_0_40212_0

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
    Right on DB. That is an excellent idea, official terrain piece designs. I believe you have hinted at this sort of thing to Ares in the past.
    Rob,
    If by "hint," you mean "break an entire production lot of Louisville Sluggers over their skulls"... this is a painful thing to say about people I consider friends, but right now it's looking like if we want anything done for Sails, especially done *right*, we're gonna have to do it ourselves for a while.

    Sorry, Andrea, but idle hands are the devil's workshop... and with you guys being pulled in other directions I figure throwing the crowd this option to fling spaghetti at a wall and see what sticks is better than unending carping of disgruntled grognards, and may even help identify areas of concern for potential future developments.
    --Diamondback
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    Please renember I am British DB!
    Refer to the chart.
    What they say, what you think they mean, what they really mean.
    Let's just say that I'm slightly miffed.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naharaht View Post
    Have you looked at The Wargame Vault http://www.wargamevault.com ? There are all sorts of things there including card models and 3D printing files for buildings and terrain in different scales.

    For example here is a modular gun emplacement. It is for 28mm models but it suggests that it can be rescaled.

    It may be found at https://www.wargamevault.com/product...rs=0_0_40212_0
    Hi Dave.
    As I read it they set a minimum down scale too big for our size of ships.
    Nevertheless, the site you have posted is of great interest to me as a gamer in both 15 and 25 mm.
    Thanks for posting this link.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Merry Christmas day Rob!
    Yes I have printed a few things I got off of Thinyverse. A French walled farmstead and a couple of martello towers. I also downloades files for some islands, one with a castle fortress, that I have yet to print. They are in two parts in order to fit on the plate.

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    Very impressive in its detailing and clean lines for the scale Vol.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
    Very impressive in its detailing and clean lines for the scale Vol.
    Rob.
    I forgot to say I printed this one in 1/1200 scale

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    That's the scale I like my buildings. I find the slight reduction in size helps make the photos look more in perspective.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    I forgot to say I printed this one in 1/1200 scale
    Looks very good! Printing terrain buildings in a slightly smaller scale might also help emphasize their "background" role, as our de-facto Fearless Leader observes.
    --Diamondback
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    Merry Christmas day Rob!
    Yes I have printed a few things I got off of Thinyverse. A French walled farmstead and a couple of martello towers. I also downloades files for some islands, one with a castle fortress, that I have yet to print. They are in two parts in order to fit on the plate.

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    That's an exceptional clean print for an FDM printer. Well done.
    No-one expects a ship full of dwarves.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    Merry Christmas day Rob!
    Yes I have printed a few things I got off of Thinyverse. A French walled farmstead and a couple of martello towers. I also downloades files for some islands, one with a castle fortress, that I have yet to print. They are in two parts in order to fit on the plate.

    Could you post the links please? I've found some martello towers, but not the farm (its based on La hay Sainte at Waterloo)

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    Wozname's https://www.wargaming3d.com/product/la-haye-sainte/ (free download). He also has a Hugomont. (not free)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lieste View Post
    Wozname's https://www.wargaming3d.com/product/la-haye-sainte/ (free download). He also has a Hugomont. (not free)
    Yes that is the one David

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    Quote Originally Posted by McDorf View Post
    That's an exceptional clean print for an FDM printer. Well done.
    Thanks Gary! This Ender 5 Pro I have is doing amazing things. The farm was printed using a smaller .03 nozzle. And with the 'ironing' feature in the latest Cura 14.1, even the standard .04 nozzle is printing out amazingly smooth models. I am very happy with this printer. Just have to keep the filiment reels dry. My old food dehydrator and zip lock bags are working well in that regard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    Yes that is the one David
    Thanks :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    Just have to keep the filiment reels dry. My old food dehydrator and zip lock bags are working well in that regard.
    And this part is the real challenge in Wet-stern Washington, where the annual Rain Festival kicks off January 1 and ends December 31...
    --Diamondback
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondback View Post
    And this part is the real challenge in Wet-stern Washington, where the annual Rain Festival kicks off January 1 and ends December 31...

    And I'm in eastern Washington where it is a tad drier but nothing like where I grew up in the southwest deserts. Everything rusts here

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    And then I post that right before we get a foot of Snowmageddon... this crap makes me wanna deal with it the way great-grandpa's old employer did, bolt a jet engine down on a flatbed then bolt a duckbill attachment onto the tailpipe and melt it all.

    Hey, it did wonders for the New York Central RR keeping the mainlines open in 1950s-60s winters...
    --Diamondback
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    Haha that's certainly one way to get rid of it. Pretty cold here this evening, only 7°F at 5PM. Heck, Anchorage Alaska is in the 30's! Seems unfair. We moved down here from there 23 years ago to get warmer.

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    Doing pretty well in Nottingham then. Although rain is forcast till dinner time 1t is 8°C here at 7.45 am and rising to a heady 9° by 10am.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Well, we’ve been a few degrees below zero centigrade for a few weeks now. Not much snow but most of Sweden have been white for Christmas. I prefer it when it’s frozen and not wet, though.

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    That would be preferable to our -13°C this morning!

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    Weather forecast for this week around Seattle...


    And what different amounts of snow mean in different parts of the US...
    --Diamondback
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    Very amusing DB.
    The top bit not so funny. I hope you miss out on the one degree on Thursday and the two degrees on the day following.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Hahaha so true DB

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    That chart is priceless DB!!

    I am on the line whereby we never know if we will get snow/ice or rain, although these days it is more likely rain. Dobbs escaped to Florida sunshine this year!

    On the 3d printing topic temperature can very much effect resin printing, I have been having failures recently that look suspiciously like the resin is not properly curing. I aimed a heater at the printer and warmed the resin so we shall see. Thought I may have more time due to an enforced quarantine, but I have spent too much of it in bed.

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    Revised forecast to close the year here:


    Glad I'm not trying to do any prints, the cold, wet and overcast would prevent proper curing.
    --Diamondback
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    Our temperature is forecast to reach 39 today too but that is Centigrade.

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    Reached a heady 15 degrees C today but going down to 14 tomorrow.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondback View Post
    Revised forecast to close the year here:


    Glad I'm not trying to do any prints, the cold, wet and overcast would prevent proper curing.
    Yeah I have been having problems printing. Thought the temps might be an issue - put a space heater next to the printer and resin. 70 degrees but still printing a thin sheet of resin where the first layers should be. I don't think my basement ever gets above 70 even in the summer so back to the drawing board. Here is a sample:

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    I found some cured resin on the screen and cleaned it off and it is better but still getting thin sheets under the model rafts.

    Sigh the joys of resin printing. Testing some settings and if nothing works I will install the new screen I got.

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    Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the printing in this weather Eric. I wonder if Jonas has experienced anything like this in Sweden.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    I find that an air temperature in the room of between 18 and 22 C gives satisfactory conditions for printing in resin. Any lower and failures start to occur. An importand aspect is to ensure your resin is warmed through as well. I keep mine in a store that sees ambient air temperature so I leave it for an hour or three once its been brought inside to warm through before putting it in the printer. You can really see the viscocity difference if you pour it in cold.

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    Wow, and I thought I had trouble with my FDM! I received a 3D Filiment Dryer for Christmas that replaces the reel spindal on my machine. It is working quite well so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Manley View Post
    I find that an air temperature in the room of between 18 and 22 C gives satisfactory conditions for printing in resin. Any lower and failures start to occur. An importand aspect is to ensure your resin is warmed through as well. I keep mine in a store that sees ambient air temperature so I leave it for an hour or three once its been brought inside to warm through before putting it in the printer. You can really see the viscocity difference if you pour it in cold.
    Exactly I never had trouble before and I am printing around 20c with warmed resin. Of course temp effect vary with resin and some people print in an enclosure at 25-30c ! I just tried to print the Resin Exposure Validator and got a fail like those above. Perhaps it is time to install a new screen and see how bad Anycubic's customer service really is!

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    This seems to be answering some important questions on printing gents would you like me to move it to the Workbench forum and stick it for you?

    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Manley View Post
    I find that an air temperature in the room of between 18 and 22 C gives satisfactory conditions for printing in resin. Any lower and failures start to occur. An importand aspect is to ensure your resin is warmed through as well. I keep mine in a store that sees ambient air temperature so I leave it for an hour or three once its been brought inside to warm through before putting it in the printer. You can really see the viscocity difference if you pour it in cold.
    Might some kind of warmer before it enters the feed system help, too?
    --Diamondback
    PMH, SME, TLA, BBB
    Historical Consultant to Ares, Wings and Sails - Unless otherwise noted, all comments are strictly Personal Opinion ONLY and not to be taken as official Company Policy.

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