3D printer files (buildings, ships, wrecks, etc....)

Hi

I am 95% sure to buy a 3D printer.....for completing all I am thinking of for SoG
Crazy, I know

But before.....are there any finished models like buildings, ships or similar in the correct scale ready for printing?
I found a few mostly in 1/600 which is much too big

Best,
Lutz

Lutz, we're kinda problematic... Waves 1/2 are nominally 1/1000 scale other than USS Constitution, Waves 3/4 closer to 1/1200.

The great thing about 3D printers is that you can scale the print to whatever size you want. My 1/1000 Indefatigable and Anson are both nominally 1/700 scale models scaled appropriately.

In this Kickstarter you can get some ships to print:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...nder-expansion

They are meant for 1:650 scale but as David says above, you can change it. The only risk is if detail gets to small to print.

Great variety of ships on the stocks there Jonas, and they look very detailed indeed.
I just wish I was into 3D printing.
Rob.

Thank you for link
I'll take a look

Yes, you can very easy change the scale of a print.
My sunken ship marker is also s scaled down from 1:600 to 1:1000 and then taken a 100 degrees cut through the whole ship.
So only a half is printed

Might be an interesting related question for David M. in regards to "sinker" models, on behalf of 3dp designers: What would the typical failure mode be for one of these ships sunk in battle? As a guess I'd say probably not a WWII-movie-style Break-in-Two which was usually the realm of a torpedo hit, more likely either catastrophic magazine explosion (Orient at Aboukir) or foundering from being shot full of holes.

I tend to make mine rollover or if I want to get two sinkings out of one ship either by the bows or stern.
Rob.https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....id=51014&stc=1

In fact ships of all shapes and sizes in all manners of bother, and they all fit nicely in my ready locker.

Rob.

https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....id=51015&stc=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Diamondback

Might be an interesting related question for David M. in regards to "sinker" models, on behalf of 3dp designers: What would the typical failure mode be for one of these ships sunk in battle? As a guess I'd say probably not a WWII-movie-style Break-in-Two which was usually the realm of a torpedo hit, more likely either catastrophic magazine explosion (Orient at Aboukir) or foundering from being shot full of holes.

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Mode of loss in those rare occasions where a ship was sunk in action was generally bodily linkage or listing and partial capsized as the lower ports flooded. So youwouls be fine with an angle of 20-30 degrees and I would say a lower bow or atern trim (10 degrees) Extreme heel nd trim angles would be rare given the mass of ballast low in the ship and the low degree of internal subdivision. Catastrophic mode of loss was generally through magazine explosion. No back-breaking spectacular, the non contact torpedo was still some way off :happy:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by David Manley

Mode of loss in those rare occasions where a ship was sunk in action was generally bodily linkage or listing and partial capsized as the lower ports flooded. So youwouls be fine with an angle of 20-30 degrees and I would say a lower bow or atern trim (10 degrees) Extreme heel nd trim angles would be rare given the mass of ballast low in the ship and the low degree of internal subdivision. Catastrophic mode of loss was generally through magazine explosion. No back-breaking spectacular, the non contact torpedo was still some way off :happy:

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So in short, set up some kind of jig to hold the hull at 20-30 left or right, fire up Ye Olde Power Sander and sand it all the way to the "high side" waterline and Bob's Yer Uncle, then optionally repeat at ten degrees down by bow or stern?

More or less what I do DB. Only being a lazy B I just freehand them. However, do watch out for the drag on the edge of the model between the Belt or Disc and the edge of the table, as it tends to pull down the melting plastic and the model which can have not only a disasterous effect on the model but also on your finger ends.
Rob.

This is why on DIY firearms we only take off a little material at a time, make one pass then clean the tool and part before the next. :) (Cutting the slide rails on a 1911 is literally SHAVING metal out of the frame 1/64" or less at a time...)

Since the OP was asking about 3d printing, they'd have it even easier, just dial in the list and bow/stern adjustments and lop the underwater sections off the digital model before printing.

:hmmm: Ah! The magic of 3D printing. Well beyond my level of expertise DB.:question:
Rob.:hatsoff:

Its not sooo magic :-)
So I am experimenting with some new markers for damaged and/or sunken ships
Attachment 51110
This is fresh out of the printer

I went on a weeks course for 3d printig when it first came out. It did not help that I was still coming to grips with using a computer to create 3d nets of things. Not even doing any cutting out. Never even got to the CNC programming stage. As we did not have the programme we used on the course installed at work anyway, I never followed up on it. It is still magic to me Lutz.:wink:
Rob.