Thanks for the link to the pdf, Jim. I am starting to build a nice collection of modeling helps.
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Thanks for the link to the pdf, Jim. I am starting to build a nice collection of modeling helps.
Well I had to try spray painting Keith's ratlines.
Peeled the plastic coatings. Swished in warm water with some Palmolive dish soap. Rinsed and dried. A few thin coats of flat brown Rust-Oleum protective enamel that I bought from Ace Hardware, waited an hour, then a few more thin coats.
It went on so thin that it looks like brown brass:happy:, and looks so good that I'm afraid to dull coat it. Thanks Keith:beer:.
So I spent the afternoon (and evening) fretting about ruining them. Been soaking in simple green, old toothbrush, paint brushes, finger nails trying to see if the primer will come off. It was starting to.... decide to come back and check in. Then I find the above post..... WHAT THE #$(&. "Peeled the plastic coatings".
PLASTIC COATING? Lol. Mother of god I am an idiot.
I will be quiet now - go sit in the corner. Nothing to see here - move along.
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T, now that is funny.
Glad all will work out well for you.
Well played.
T that has to be the best of all possible outcomes. Congrats!
Jim
Great article on handling the photo etched parts. I'm still waiting for mine to arrive but am learning all the do's and don'ts from others. I don't have an airbrush so that might be an issue, but would immersion in diluted black ink work?
I wonder how many times throughout history man has been saved by his own stupidity? LOL Not at all call you stupid Ted, I've done many similar things in my life. I just find it funny and kind of classic. lol I"m glad everything worked out for you in the end and I look forward to seeing the "ships that almost never were".
Immersion might work because you can put the entire sheet of brass into the ink? When I do apply the ink with the brush it does fill in the gaps between the lines, but a quick puff of air over a paper towel clears them out. Immersion will probably do the same, but again the puff of air should clear it quickly.
Ed's trial and success with Rust-Oleum spray paint gave me the courage to try it on my ratlines. I used flat black. Held the ratlines at arms length and lightly sprayed two sets. The first SOL set had the India Ink wash and the smaller set was clean brass. If you look at the smaller set from a vertical angle you can still see some brass showing so another ink wash for them is likely. Also, some clogging of the lines near the apex, but that's OK as far as I'm concerned as it will be under the fighting tops and not very visible.
For the remainder of ratlines I think I'm going to wash like Ed did above, then do a light wash with the India Ink and finally spray with paint. I may not put a dull coat on at all. Touch up paint on the blocks, maybe?
Regular Rust-Oleum flat black and not this 'Painters Touch" brand might work better? It's what I had on hand.
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Rust-oleum Painters touch does go on thicker.
With the regular Rust-oleum, spraying at a slight angle at each of the four sides should take care of any missed spots.
Another thing I learned was to make sure the ratline is off the ground when you use even light coats of dull coat, or some of the smaller spaces at the top of the ratline will fill.
Wish my camera skills were as good as Jim's.
Two sources say GREEN, and one source says, the order was given to paint them black (both with white stripes). I opted for the majority. Besides, it's easier to spot your dark green ships on the table.:drinks: The white sided Sybille seems to be color ready (except for a dark green over the black touch up) for a Russian Frigate.
The louder the shout! We all thought the world was flat! "2 wrongs do not make a right! :takecover: :surrender: You are too much of a friend. I care too much. Paint them green if you wish, but I wish to see photos my friend.
Be safe
Rory
"Fifteen hundred years ago, everybody 'knew' the Earth was the center of the universe. Five hundred years ago, everybody 'knew' the Earth was flat, and fifteen minutes ago, you 'knew' that humans were alone on this planet. Imagine what you’ll 'know' tomorrow..."
--Agent K of the Men in Black
I seem to recall we had a discussion about this maybe a year ago. I think the final outcome was they may have been originally painted green but turned black over time, or, they may have been black but turned green over time as that is what paints can do in weather, UV damage etc etc. So, whatever you paint you could be right but you could be wrong!
The side that has to question EVERYTHING, amigo. :)
"We do not follow maps to buried treasure, and 'X' never, ever, marks the spot."
A little later:
"Ten. X marks the spot."
--Indiana Jones
I will talk with Keith about this, and when we return from the convention, we'll set up some subfolders and do some organizing. There are so many good ideas floating around here that I fear will get lost over time. Same with the 'Drome. If you are offline for awhile, you can miss a lot.
I am trying to do some daily events on the 'Drome, and between those and the ones I did here last year, I have come to believe that historical analysis can be rife with problems and discrepancies. It always makes me a bit hesitant to hit the post button. I just don't know why folks didn't anticipate all the questions we would have today. :wink:
Is there a "how to" to apply the rat lines to the ships, mine have arrived and I intend to rig wave 1 while watching the football. Although after last nights England performance I am not relishing our chances
Not yet, but you can see one test photo Keith did in post #130 of this thread. I think Michael (mdavis41) might be the closest to having a ship completed? I've got to pick up a set of the micro tweezers before I can proceed. The set I have will work with the Langton ratlines but not these.
To get ready for my next attempt I:
1. Removed all the brass shrouds from attempt 1 and 2.
2. Bought a new Bausch & Lomb Magna Visor with Lens Set
3. Bought a new set of precision tweezers
4. Bought from Brookhurst Hobby some of their INSTA-CURE SUPER THIN CYANOACRYLATE and EXTRA-FINE EXTENDER TIPS
5. Drove to San Diego to study HMS Surprise. I have posted images on my Blog at:
http://horseandmusket2.blogspot.com/...go-harbor.html
I will post some image of my models when I finally get this right. But I'm working at it!
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"Chaos. Disorder. Panic. My work here is done." :p
Here is a photo of the ratlines sprayed with regular Rust-oleum flat black. This is a ratline for a SOL (SN104). I did a couple of quick passes over each side.
Attachment 10135
You've got a plan and the right tools so you should be set. Coincidentally I was at the Last Square (our FLGS) today and we were talking about the insta cure stuff. I did buy a bottle of Zip Kicker from ZAP, but now I'm not sure I want to try it on the ratlines? The process on this stuff generates a lot of heat and there's a chance of white residue. It's also fairly toxic? I may test it on some spare brass parts first before I touch the Anchorage ratlines.
Thanks for the picture as well.
If you use Kicker on them, use this method. Spray a good amount into a bowl or lid so that you can dip a toothpick or something similar (you may have to let the wood soak up the Kicker). You want to get just a little on your toothpick like tool and just rub it onto the parts of the ratlines you want to attach. Put your glue on the masts and then set your lines in place. The small amount of Kicker will make them stick right away, but should not be enough to cure the entire amount of glue (avoiding the heat and white crust). Make sure you set them down exactly where you want them though!
I've not done the above on the ratlines, but I've used it on similar delicate work before.
Good question. I usually hit the completed models with dull coat (I use a Krylon matt sealer vs. Testors), maybe in this case I'll hit the ratlines first.
I need to get a needle tip for my glue first. I saw a method of using regular CA with an accelerant applied after the piece is set in place. This may be a solution to the Kicker glue being too strong.