I have kicked off January by amputating some ships to start building my Chilean Navy Squadron.
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Rob.
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I have kicked off January by amputating some ships to start building my Chilean Navy Squadron.
Attachment 34788
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Rob.
Now to remove unsightly midriff bulge.
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Nice! Starting to think about trying to track down a spare Victory to rework both Britannia and 1803 Victory with... basically, trade hulls and repaint each into the other's former colors.
I have a spare Victory and would follow your lead if you post the stages DB. Meantime here is my next stage in the rape of Hermione.
Rob.
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After gutting the ship's mid section cut off the peg for use later.
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Drill a hole in the end and superglue in a steel pin ready for re attaching to the ship's hull at a later stage.
Rob.
Uh, did I mention having like ZERO fine motor skill? I'm lucky that Gene Stoner turned his back on traditional gunsmithing technique and designed the AR15 more like other industrial products so any monkey with the right hammers, punches, wrenches and screwdrivers can knock one together... as it is, once they're in I'm gonna be looking for someone I can outsource reducing the quarterdecks and bulwarks on my EIM's to, and when my First Rates arrived with broken masts I elected to exchange rather than fight with.
Conversion process for Late Victory & Britannia:
1. Remove masts and flags from both hulls.
2. Install Victory masts, from stem to stern, and flag on Britannia hull.
3. Repaint into Nelson Checker.
4. Install 1805 Victory insert in Britannia base; install finished miniature on base.
5. Install Britannia masts, stem-to-stern, and flag on Victory hull.
6. Repaint into SGN108 scheme.
7. Install Britannia insert into Victory cross-pin base; install miniature on base.
More fiddly, but much easier as far as cutting and splicing hulls, than your Hermione reworks--it's Ville de Paris and Hibernia that are going to be the nightmares. I'm thinking those would be best done by using RTV rubber molds to cast extra hulls in resin, chop the new hull at the start of the "plug" section and the old at site of original cut for VdP. Then repeat the cast-cut-splice using the stretched VdP hull as the master for Hibernia, then fill-and-file to reshape the bulwarks.
Thanks for that easy to follow explanation DB. I will pot it into dry dock ready for conversion. got no more done today due to a game with Cpt. Kiwi and an afternoon at the pub for a late lunch with himself and our good ladies.
Will try to post tonight's work tomorrow.
Rob.
That's the nutshell, lines up the rigging and galleries. Fine detail may mean some gunport rework, but this is just looking at "key defining features".
For me am busy rigging some 64s and doing some rigging for Ensign Patch.
Been quiet due to Xmas and work, but hope to get some pics done this coming weekend
Just had time to position and drill hole for peg wire in hull.
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Then glued peg onto hull and left to harden overnight.
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Rob.
Here is the reason for not much getting done yesterday.
Mrs Bligh, myself, captain Kiwi and Mrs Kiwi out for late lunch at the local Tavern after the game.
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Rob.
Yesterday I got the sails drilled out ready for re-positioning
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And Milliputted the two halves back together.
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Just waiting for it to cure.
Rob.
I'm also working on Chileans (and Peruvians), although a bit later in the century than yours :)
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l4O-hCzd8...2B17.53.18.jpg
Rob, morale must be kept at the highest possible standards, and your standards are high. Cheers. :drinks:
Your day away from the workbench looks like a pleasant Tavern to visit.
Cheers Paul.
Just wish I could take you there for a drink one day
Rob.
We may get to toast one day yet. I have recently seen affordable airfare to London which was pointed out by the Mrs. With that kind of high level approval we're halfway there. First is an upcoming family get together in Colorado early summer. If it looks like a pond hop may come together later this year or early next I'll PM you and the details. If nothing else just a hello and a few yarns is always pleasant too.
Sounds good to me old socks.
Rob.
Well a bit later than anticipated but here is the next installment.
Milliput mixed with superglue to make it cure quicker. You can sculpt it after about an hour and it will totally cure overnight.
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Rob.
Actually, the news is even worse on the First Rates: Ares did it backward, they should have used the open-gallery Victory for everything else and the closed-gallery for the Special, because almost all of the threedeckers I've been able to find were Open Gallery.
Rob, I've been considering building an island and I really like your technique. Are there any how-tos on this site for your style?
Morning Dobbs.
This may be of use to you as it covers the general construction but not Islands in particular.
https://sailsofglory.org/content.php...n-in-sequence&
I will shortly, however be starting some small islands of my own, and will include a How to for you.
Rob.
Last evening I started to clean up the seams,
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and then repaint the ships sides and deck before replacing the ships boats.
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Rob.
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Painting now finished, and just the central mast to re-position.
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There we go all fair and frolicsome.
Four down and just five more to go.
Rob.
Great work Rob. Now I'm not alone at having a small 6th rate.
It was your inspiration that led me on Jonas.
Thanks.
Rob.
Here is the completed Chacabuco.
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I can now get on with my other Chilean Navy ships.
Rob.
Another question now springs to mind. As Bomb Ketches were pigs to handle and sailed like a brick, what deck would anyone recommend and what veer?
Rob.
Lowest & Slowest, amigo. At least as an initial trial, anyway...
Thanks for the swift reply DB.
Rob.
Now starting work on converting Thorn into the Brigantine Aguila.
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In foreground can be seen the new larger Spanker from Langtons. I will move the Mizzen mast to replace the Fore and use the Main for the new Spanker moved slightly backward from its present position.
Rob
I gave mine a Veer of 7, They use the A deck, and have the sailing angles of a Hebe frigate.
My reasoning is this: Veer is an aspect of waterline length, with a bit of handling thrown in, so, since they are comparable to SoWs, but with brick-like tendancies....7.
I arbitrarily picked the A deck because it's slower than G and C, but didn't want to go any slower to avoid over-representing their under-performance.
With the wind on the beam or farther aft, they wouldn't have been too handicapped, but with no foremast, mortar ketches would have been a challenge going to windward. Thusly I chose to have it point like a much bigger ship, therefore the Hebes or Amazons. It still has only one gundeck, so I didn't think its angles needed to be worse.
Thank you for that very full explanation for your decisions Dobbs. Taken in consideration with what DB said I intend to take it on board fully. As luck would have it I just happen to have a spare A deck left over from my sunken Frigate model. This frees up the G deck for one of my other small ships.
Rob.
This morning I drilled out the new foremast with its spanker still attached, added an extra sail and mounted the new mast.
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Rob.
Last evening I have pinned and glued a new Spanker from Langton's to the Main mast, and it is off to the paint shop for a white undercoat, and overnight hardening.
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A small note. As the gaff can be lowered along the mast, the spar is mounted above the gaff. That’s why a snow/snau looks the way it does, with a third mast just behind the mainmast.
If I were you, I wouldn’t bother to change anything but it’s a small heads up for others that may want to do the same conversion.
Cheers Jonas.
I was using a rather unclear picture from the net. When you put in "Brigantine" you get all sorts of strange answers so in the end I just guessed which one was the most likely. The fact that modern Brigantines seem to be totally different also threw me a bit. Needs a real live sailor to tell me.:wink:
Rob.
The final stage today.
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Drilling out for Mainmast and flag staff.
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Painting and Mast set in place.
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Hoist the colours and all is complete.
Rob.
With the Chilean Navy finished for the time being, I can now get on with all the odds and ends which need tidying up.
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Rob.
Say, Rob, I never printed out my Chilean ship bases, but chose to make the whites a parchment-y color on the computer for an antique effect. Did they turn out okay, or would you like them redone in straight-up white?
No need to worry Dobbs, they turned out perfectly thanks.
Rob.