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  • How to fix Wave 3, 50 and 64 gun ships.

    First cut off the forestays.


    Cut them apart and turn them around. Trim the lower edge to fit the other way.


    Make extensions for the masts by heating some plastic rod and stretching it to the desired thickness. Being an old modeler I have plastic sprues I use.


    Drill very shallow holes in the tops


    Glue extensions in place.


    Glue forestays in place. Let the inner point to the topgallant masts base.


    I will repeat the mast extension for the topmasts too one level higher up, but I think it's the fighting tops that look most strange missing the tops of the masts.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: How to fix Wave 3, 50 and 64 gun ships. started by TexaS View original post
    Comments 13 Comments
    1. Nightmoss's Avatar
      Nightmoss -
      It might be a bit easier and safer to purchase plastic rods of the correct dimension?

      Do you use a heat gun or open flame to soften the plastic? In the old days I just used a candle to stretch plastic, but in retrospect breathing melting plastic fumes was probably not a good thing?
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      That takes me back a few more years than I care to admit Jim.
      What used to annoy me most was the black soot marks that got integrated with the plastic.
      I agree that with the plastic and acrylic rods so easy to get these days, and the inherent dangers from plastic fumes, or accidental burns it hardly seems worth the effort to stretch your own.
      Rob.
    1. TexaS's Avatar
      TexaS -
      I use an open flame.

      The thing with buying rods is that you have to buy a lot of dimensions to have all the ones needed. But if you have them then that would be better
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      I just collect an odd one or two, each time I'm in the Hobby shop. That way it does not hurt so much.
      I do the same with sheet polystyrene.
      Rob.
    1. Nightmoss's Avatar
      Nightmoss -
      Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
      That takes me back a few more years than I care to admit Jim.
      What used to annoy me most was the black soot marks that got integrated with the plastic.
      I agree that with the plastic and acrylic rods so easy to get these days, and the inherent dangers from plastic fumes, or accidental burns it hardly seems worth the effort to stretch your own.
      Rob.
      Oh boy that does take me back. I used to do that to make the wire aerials for my model battleships, etc. The soot flew everywhere (and probably right into my lungs).

      Quote Originally Posted by TexaS View Post
      I use an open flame.

      The thing with buying rods is that you have to buy a lot of dimensions to have all the ones needed. But if you have them then that would be better
      I know exactly what you mean. I often find the size I want is always sold out too. Keep the room well ventilated then in any case.

      Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
      I just collect an odd one or two, each time I'm in the Hobby shop. That way it does not hurt so much.
      I do the same with sheet polystyrene.
      Rob.
      That's almost exactly how I do it Rob.
    1. TexaS's Avatar
      TexaS -
      I have adequate ventilation and I make sure to not burn the plastic and as you can see I don't get any soot in my plastic.
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      No Jonas you certainly don't. Your superb pristine painted models are a testimony to that.
      Also how clean you keep the front of your uniform!
      Have you any other useful tips about the use of plastic sprue or such?
      Rob.
    1. TexaS's Avatar
      TexaS -
      I use... nightlights?



      I keep the plastic quite high above the flame and rotate it. It's slower but I have better control.

      About the uniform... Modern stain removers work wonders on port stains as well as strawberry... Usually just the shirt that's been affected.

      By the way, Rob... It you're making a uniform too, I can tell you that I use silk thread to sew on the gold band. Those are metal and therefor cut the thread when used. I have recently repaired a lot of the stitches. I usually wait until longer stretches need restitching.
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      Thanks Jonas, I will pass that advice about stitching on to my good lady.
      Rob.
    1. TexaS's Avatar
      TexaS -
      It might not be advice but rather information.

      I used silk thread since it's historical and shiny but if you use some modern synthetic it might be stronger.
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      No modern synthetics were it shows is the watchword.
      Rob.
    1. TexaS's Avatar
      TexaS -
      I understand that. I went with only historical threads and hand stitched where it shows.

      There are many choices for lining though. Linen, cotton, silk or combinations are all historical. I went with linen. I also went fully lined which apparently was unusual. The back (waist up) was often not lined.
    1. Bligh's Avatar
      Bligh -
      I think fully lined is a sound idea Jonas.
      The linen option also appeals because it wears well and won't show perspiration marks like silk does.
      Also laundering is made easier with a Wool coat lined with linen as long as you remembered to pre wash the Linen before making up the coat.
      Rob.
  • Recent Posts

    Bligh

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    I think it is a brilliant idea to add to your already wonderful work.
    I am now thinking how I can build the careening process into one of my scenarios.

    Bligh Today, 15:39 Go to last post
    Redcoat

    What's on your workbench for August?

    I continue to build my Spanish port. I have finished painting all the buildings and adding the vegetation.

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    Redcoat Today, 14:49 Go to last post
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    Thank you Eric, I will consider it for future purchases.

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