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View Full Version : Scratching building a 1/1200 Frigate - Enterprise class 1774



PeteW
05-09-2019, 14:53
Inspired by the Langton kits I'm working on I was inspired to give it a go and build something from scratch.

https://i.imgur.com/BhFnwb6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nWrkpLJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8R7EKVY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/perWxvU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/H8kwfCU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yDWrdKd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZDNKqmE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wVidtGO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8eWe88m.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fGMaJKl.jpg

About a weeks worth of little often work.

P

PeteW
05-11-2019, 10:01
Progress has slowed as I puzzle over masts.

https://i.imgur.com/yzcTMV8.jpg

I'm not happy with either option here, and so am likely to discard.

Plastic rod is far easier to work, but steel rod has the necessary strength. I probably need to get hold of a range of small diameter brass rod/wire.

I'm also distracted by a fresh order that has arrived from Langton Miniatures and oh boy is the 74 model nice !!!

Dobbs
05-11-2019, 15:44
I use carbon fiber rod for RC planes for masts.

PeteW
05-13-2019, 12:33
I was not happy with the shape of my first attempt, mainly due to the stern galleries being over sized for the size of ship and that I had added a shim shaped to the orlop, whereas it looks better when shaped to the gun deck, and so have made a second version.

This took hardly any time compared to the first given I knew the way to go, and galleries are now a much better size.

https://i.imgur.com/0Txv2sa.jpg

(new version at the front, with a newly arrived Langton 24 gun frigate at the rear for comparison.)

Sorry the photo is not very good, but the plastic card reflects so much light that the shadows to give depth are lost.

Dobbs - thanks for the suggestion, for the moment I've gone with micro brass tube, with the thought that I will solder the joints - we'll see how that works out when the brass arrives later this week.

Bligh
05-14-2019, 02:42
I may be teaching my Grandmother to suck eggs Pete, but for very fine soldered joints, rather than offer up the stick of solder, file a few fine shavings off the stick and mix it with your flux before you paint it onto the joint. An old watchmaker gave me that tip many years ago.
Rob.

PeteW
05-14-2019, 03:09
Cheers for that Rob, soldering is not something I have ever really done, so that is a useful tip.

P

Bligh
05-14-2019, 03:31
For soldering you need a steady hand, super clean joints, flux, solder and sufficient heat. If you can work on a fire brick it helps reflect the heat all round the joint. Remember solder always runs to the hottest point so an even flame on both parts is essential to prevent a dry joint. Let it cool slowly to avoid fractures. Also try not to inhale the fumes. Once or twice won't do much harm but don't make a habit of it.
Rob.

PeteW
05-15-2019, 10:59
Cheers Rob for the info.

The brass tube and soldering iron arrived earlier and I managed to create the necessary joints without much difficulty. Given this is a simple join, that I can tidy up with a file, I don't need to do much more than blob the solder on while keeping the mast elements straight to each other.

https://i.imgur.com/2AtRJnH.jpg

1mm steel rod, 0.9, 0.7 & 0.5mm brass tube. The telescoping ability of the brass tube allows the 0.5mm tube (being the Royal) to sit inside the 0.7mm tube (the topgallant)

P

Bligh
05-15-2019, 12:42
Nice job Pete, and thanks for the visual.
Now you are proficient at mainmast you are ready to add cross trees.:thumbsup:
Rob.