View Full Version : How to fix Wave 3, 50 and 64 gun ships.
First cut off the forestays.
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Cut them apart and turn them around. Trim the lower edge to fit the other way.
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Make extensions for the masts by heating some plastic rod and stretching it to the desired thickness. Being an old modeler I have plastic sprues I use.
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Drill very shallow holes in the tops
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Glue extensions in place.
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Glue forestays in place. Let the inner point to the topgallant masts base.
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I will repeat the mast extension for the topmasts too one level higher up, but I think it's the fighting tops that look most strange missing the tops of the masts.
A nice little "How To" there Jonas and one which quite a few shipmates might find useful.
Would you like it made into an article?
Rob.
I can make it an Article and post it on the "How to" forum for everyone to access without having to trawl the posts.
Rob.
Nightmoss
02-21-2017, 10:50
It might be a bit easier and safer to purchase plastic rods of the correct dimension?
Do you use a heat gun or open flame to soften the plastic? In the old days I just used a candle to stretch plastic, but in retrospect breathing melting plastic fumes was probably not a good thing?
That takes me back a few more years than I care to admit Jim.
What used to annoy me most was the black soot marks that got integrated with the plastic.
I agree that with the plastic and acrylic rods so easy to get these days, and the inherent dangers from plastic fumes, or accidental burns it hardly seems worth the effort to stretch your own.
Rob.
I use an open flame.
The thing with buying rods is that you have to buy a lot of dimensions to have all the ones needed. But if you have them then that would be better
I just collect an odd one or two, each time I'm in the Hobby shop. That way it does not hurt so much.
I do the same with sheet polystyrene.
Rob.
Nightmoss
02-21-2017, 14:32
That takes me back a few more years than I care to admit Jim.
What used to annoy me most was the black soot marks that got integrated with the plastic.
I agree that with the plastic and acrylic rods so easy to get these days, and the inherent dangers from plastic fumes, or accidental burns it hardly seems worth the effort to stretch your own.
Rob.
Oh boy that does take me back. I used to do that to make the wire aerials for my model battleships, etc. The soot flew everywhere (and probably right into my lungs).
I use an open flame.
The thing with buying rods is that you have to buy a lot of dimensions to have all the ones needed. But if you have them then that would be better
I know exactly what you mean. I often find the size I want is always sold out too. Keep the room well ventilated then in any case.
I just collect an odd one or two, each time I'm in the Hobby shop. That way it does not hurt so much.
I do the same with sheet polystyrene.
Rob.
That's almost exactly how I do it Rob.
I have adequate ventilation and I make sure to not burn the plastic and as you can see I don't get any soot in my plastic.
No Jonas you certainly don't. Your superb pristine painted models are a testimony to that.
Also how clean you keep the front of your uniform!:wink:
Have you any other useful tips about the use of plastic sprue or such?
Rob.
I use... nightlights?
http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8873008496670.jpg
I keep the plastic quite high above the flame and rotate it. It's slower but I have better control.
About the uniform... Modern stain removers work wonders on port stains as well as strawberry... Usually just the shirt that's been affected.
By the way, Rob... It you're making a uniform too, I can tell you that I use silk thread to sew on the gold band. Those are metal and therefor cut the thread when used. I have recently repaired a lot of the stitches. I usually wait until longer stretches need restitching.
Thanks Jonas, I will pass that advice about stitching on to my good lady.
Rob.
It might not be advice but rather information.
I used silk thread since it's historical and shiny but if you use some modern synthetic it might be stronger.
No modern synthetics were it shows is the watchword.
Rob.
I understand that. I went with only historical threads and hand stitched where it shows.
There are many choices for lining though. Linen, cotton, silk or combinations are all historical. I went with linen. I also went fully lined which apparently was unusual. The back (waist up) was often not lined.
I think fully lined is a sound idea Jonas.
The linen option also appeals because it wears well and won't show perspiration marks like silk does.
Also laundering is made easier with a Wool coat lined with linen as long as you remembered to pre wash the Linen before making up the coat.
Rob.
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