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Nightmoss
06-27-2015, 14:29
As promised here's an updated "How to" for making custom ship bases, or any kind of casting you'd like to try actually. I've been thinking of trying to cast my own sails for the SGN ships, but that will be another post if I get there.

I will link the products used to online websites, but for the most part I've been able to pick these up locally either at Michael's, Jo Ann Fabrics or other hobby centers. Originally I got the resin casting product directly from the manufacturer, but I believe you can pick up some smaller portions for sale at Michael's. Or go via Amazon?

Base sizes you want will be determined by the number of ships you want to include in a diorama. You can make them larger and cut to size or just try to duplicate products from Langton's or other manufacturers?

I make a base using ready cut basswood and sticks from Jo Ann Fabrics.

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Sticks along the side should be glued up up as high as you want the thickness of your finished base. I think I just eyeballed what I wanted but you should have at least 1/16th of an inch or more (1.5875mm).

Then you're going to want to make a hard surfaced material that you can mold. I used Procreate Putty.

http://www.amazon.com/Kraftmark-Company-PROC-3-ProCreate-Putty/dp/B00DE4YU2S

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It takes a bit of effort to mix the two parts. Think of it like making salt water taffy. You'll want to pull and stretch, fold over, pull and stretch again and again until it's all one color. For the base I made I used approximately two thirds of each stick. That was enough to cover the base I had.

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Then you push it down onto the base and sculpt away. I do try to use some clay sculpting tools, but the material can be hard to work. How you model the waves is something you'll decide on your own depending on how rough you want the seas or just what suits your eye.

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Time for curing varies, but I prefer waiting for 24 hours. When it's done the base will look something like this.

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So, now you're ready to make the mold that you'll use for casting the resin. I found this stuff at Michael's "Amazing Mold Putty Kit"

https://www.michaels.com/amazing-mold-putty-kit/10410575.html

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It's a two part putty you mix 50/50. Press it down around the edges of the base so you have enough depth for the liquid resin you'll be pouring shortly to cure without leaking over the sides. I've got a new base curing right now, but it wont be ready until tomorrow. When it's ready I'll post some add on photos to show how the putty goes on. Basically you end up with a flexible mold that looks like this.

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Casting the base is really easy with the product I purchased from Alumilite. You can also get this via Amazon, Michael's and Jo Ann Fabrics.

http://www.alumilite.com/store/p/934-Alumilite-White-Amazing-Casting-Resin.aspx

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It's another two part 50/50 mixture and you should use a disposable container for mixing. I use old yogurt containers.

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The mixture is basically clear and you should pour it into your mold as quickly as you can. It sets up amazingly fast. If I didn't mention it above you can get colors other than white. There's clear, tan and black.

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As I said this hardens very quickly. While I was creating a new base to show off tomorrow the poured base was ready to release from the mold.

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Here's the finished base ready for sanding, trimming, priming and then painting.

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The new base I sculpted this afternoon will be ready to be used as a molding base tomorrow. I'll post some follow up photos so you can see how the putty works and how a new base might turn out.

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I strongly urge you to use eye protection and gloves while working on most, if not all, of these products. The molding putty is actually safe for food molds, but I recommend caution just the same. More photos tomorrow.

Cheers!

TexaS
06-27-2015, 14:47
Great how to with exemplary pictures!

Sometimes you Americans crack me up with your conversions to metric. 1.5 mm would be possible to aim for, but four decimals to a mm you would have a hard time finding any milling machine that can to anything with that kind of precision. Polished steel with a step of 1 hundredth of a mm is hardly visible to the naked eye, even in my youth, and you can't really tell for sure when running your finger along the surface. I doubt even NASA would bother with four decimals.

Nightmoss
06-27-2015, 18:29
Great how to with exemplary pictures!

Sometimes you Americans crack me up with your conversions to metric. 1.5 mm would be possible to aim for, but four decimals to a mm you would have a hard time finding any milling machine that can to anything with that kind of precision. Polished steel with a step of 1 hundredth of a mm is hardly visible to the naked eye, even in my youth, and you can't really tell for sure when running your finger along the surface. I doubt even NASA would bother with four decimals.

lol. I just plugged the figure into an online converter and that's what it kicked out. Copy and paste is the rest of the story. :fixit:

TexaS
06-28-2015, 01:07
Well, thank you for the effort and the chuckle... :happy:

Bligh
06-28-2015, 07:23
Superb "How To" Jim. I'm sure you will get a lot of people having a go at this for simulating more realistic bases.
In passing. When we made parts for injection moulding machines, we honed and polished them to half a micron, so I did not laugh at you at all. Guess I just lack a sense of humour after all that polishing.:happy:
Rob.

7eat51
06-28-2015, 10:17
Well done, Jim. Thank you. :hatsoff:

I will ensure Sue see this for her Constitution.

Nightmoss
06-28-2015, 15:14
Here's the final follow up on the DIY project. This morning the base mold was ready for trimming and clean up prior to the application of the mold putty.

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As mentioned above the molding putty is mixed 50/50; it's usually best to roll it into balls so you can better judge the size.

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When combined you're going to have to act quickly. This stuff sets up very quickly. If fact I had to toss out the first batch because in the time I went to fetch my camera it had set up enough so it wouldn't actually mold to the base. Larger quantities might be a bit harder to handle as well?

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So now the mold is applied to the base and it's going to cure in approximately 20 minutes. I give it 30 just to be sure.

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When it's removed you'll now have a mold that you can repeatedly cast new plastic bases. The new mold shows I didn't mix quite as well as I should have, but I was paranoid it was going to set up on me again.

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As before you can now mix up your 2 part plastic/resin liquid and pour into the new mold. In this instance I immediately saw that one of the corners wasn't high enough to contain the liquid so a little leveling stopped the drainage.

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In very little time the plastic is set and you can remove it from the mold.

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To fix the corner issue I just took a small amount of the two parts and mixed them to bridge up the corner gap. It should set up fine and hopefully will contain future leakage.

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Finally, you can prime the plastic prior to painting in whatever water, ocean, sea scheme that suits your fancy. The base on the left is the one I made today and the one of the right is the one I poured yesterday.

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Cheers!

Rafer J Larwood
06-28-2015, 15:26
Do you have any photos of your bases in place with a ship on them yet?

Bligh
06-28-2015, 15:40
Now time to pay the Piper.
Well worth some rep Jim as soon as I am allowed to.
Rob.

Nightmoss
06-28-2015, 16:29
Do you have any photos of your bases in place with a ship on them yet?

Yes, some are posted elsewhere, but I do like how the USS Constitution and HMS Guerriere turned out. Enjoy!

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This was my first test. Langton miniatures in 1/1200 scale

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Naharaht
06-28-2015, 17:37
Well done, Jim! :clap:

Bligh
06-29-2015, 01:25
Every time I look at these I ponder about rigging my ships as yours look so good Jim. Then I think of the thirty ships I have and baulk at the thought of doing it all.
Rob.

Nightmoss
06-29-2015, 09:14
Every time I look at these I ponder about rigging my ships as yours look so good Jim. Then I think of the thirty ships I have and baulk at the thought of doing it all.
Rob.

Thanks, Rob. Having done a few I can honestly say that you will reduce the time it takes to complete each ship the more you do. You'll come up with short cuts that speed up the process without reducing the look. There's no way I'll rig all the ships I have, but choosing a few for each solo scenario or a special project does get a small number done each time?

Bligh
06-29-2015, 09:33
That could indeed be the answer Jim.
Rig as needed for a game. That will also help to indicate the ships which are not getting used.
Rob.

Nightmoss
06-30-2015, 12:30
Just a quick addendum to the DIY thread. I'm working on a new project that involves scale buildings from both Pico Armor and Langton's. If you 'glue' some of the buildings together to create city blocks or crowded streets, etc., you can also do some molding to mass produce and/or create your own building styles to include in dioramas. You're never going to get the fine detail you would from original metal or resin castings, but if you want to create an overall crowded city effect it still works reasonably well. With priming and paint this should turn out OK.

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Bligh
06-30-2015, 13:06
There is no end to your ingenuity Jim.
And to think that I have a dockside and port on my agenda too.
Rob.