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Cpt Kangaroo
01-26-2014, 18:34
I have been looking over the models and how they are mounted on the stands. Not been a huge fan of the single peg mounting system, I have been considering alternatives. It seems to me that the 74's have a higher propensity to come loose, especially during transport. The stand is obviously the key to securing the model safely, provided it doesn't come apart.

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As a result, I have come up with a semi permanent method of attaching the model to the stand.

First, some disclaimers. I do not recommend altering the models in any way, but if you do, take some common sense precautions. Take your time! There is a lot to be said for the old saying "Measure twice, Cut once". Go gently, disaster can happen in a split second when trying to force things. Invest in the right tools, a sharp new drill bit is well worth the money. And then measure again. Also, so far I have only attempted this with the 74's, I am not sure the smaller ships would handle this procedure. One last note, I would not suggest doing this if you intend to regularly swap ship data cards on the stands. While it will still be possible to unscrew the model, this is plastic after all and will not stand up to a lot of abuse.

OK, enough of that, now to the project.

I had already decided on purchasing a ship for each card produced, so flipping the ship card on the stand was not an issue. The best practice is to be uniform, so creating a template is crucial and became job one.

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I used an old credit card type plastic, and cut it to shape so it would fit snugly into the underneath void of the stand. I marked the center of the template and drilled a hole using a 3/16 drill bit to allow the peg base to pass through. Once this was done, I then drilled two guide holes with a 3/32 drill bit, 10-15mm forward and 10-15mm back from the center, and centered from the sides. Or just drill one hole and rotate the template for the second hole.

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Now that the template is complete, we can look at the screws needed. We need to use very small screws, and I was not able to get these from the hardware store, so I headed over to the local hobby shop. The radio control model industry has a whole range of unique screws and fasteners.

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I chose these 10mm screws, which came with nylon straps, which when cut, work well as spacing washers.

If shorter screws were available, the spacers probably would not be needed. Also, I did a little modification of the screws in that I ground down the sharp tips, as they are not needed with a pre drilled hole. This shortened them by about 1mm.

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Cpt Kangaroo
01-26-2014, 18:34
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Choose which ships data card you want in the stand and assemble it with the clear plastic cover. Place it upside down on a wood block for support when drilling. Using the template, drill two holes as shown, through the stand, using the 1/8 drill bit. This makes a large enough hole to allow the screw free passage without binding. You want the threads to bind on the model, not the stand and clear plastic.


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Here is a shot of the screw pushed through the stand,with the ship model behind as reference. Notice that the top of the screw is nowhere near the height of the ship deck, but long enough to give good binding to the model.

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Once complete, place the model in place using the original peg line up. Then use a sharp pin from underneath to mark with a scratch mark where on the underside of the model to drill. Remember to check your mark and remeasure if in doubt.

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Remove the ship model and turn it over to make the pilot hole to accept the screw. Using a smaller bit, very gently drill the hole, 'feeling' your way as you go. (THIS IS THE DANGER POINT. A mistake here could result in a hole through the deck.) I discovered that there is a void between the bottom and the deck layers, which helped a little. I decided that I would not drill further. Watch the hole depth closely in case your drilling does not encounter the void.

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Now that the drilling is completed, replace the model and gently screw both screws in place.

The end result is a very sturdy attachment of ship and stand. I was very happy with the results. Good luck if you decide to try this.

Coog
01-26-2014, 18:51
Good idea! Thanks for sharing.

Nightmoss
01-26-2014, 19:05
Excellent idea if you're going to fix the ships semi permanently to the bases. I'm not sure that's going to be my approach, but the information, photos and techniques you've posted are really well done. Thanks!! :hatsoff:

7eat51
01-26-2014, 22:25
Neat idea, Erin.

I noticed this evening that the curve of the bottom of the ship positively correlates to the inability of the ship to remain stationary. The flatter the bottom, the more able I was in pushing the ship down enough for the ship and base to somewhat click; the more curved the bottom of the ship was, the less so, and the looser the ship was. Tomorrow, I will look at the rest of the ships to see if the same holds true.

Andy Blozinski
01-26-2014, 22:36
If you bolt it to the stand, it's a bit of work to try and use the other side of the card. Why not just glue the ship to the clear plate?

Cpt Kangaroo
01-27-2014, 06:35
Andy, good point about the card. This would not be a good solution if you intend to use both sides. For me, that was not an issue as I will have a ship for each side. Even then, I still have the option to change if I want. Glueing would be permanent and would actually alter the original mounting system, which I did not want to do.

Cpt Kangaroo
01-27-2014, 06:43
Neat idea, Erin.

I noticed this evening that the curve of the bottom of the ship positively correlates to the inability of the ship to remain stationary. The flatter the bottom, the more able I was in pushing the ship down enough for the ship and base to somewhat click; the more curved the bottom of the ship was, the less so, and the looser the ship was. Tomorrow, I will look at the rest of the ships to see if the same holds true.

Eric,

I too had noticed the 'curve' or slight warping of the model. Mine have that slightly, and when I cinch it down with the screws, it does correct it somewhat. I was very careful not to put too much pressure and if there was a lot of curve, then this would not help I don't think.

:minis:

Holofernes
01-27-2014, 13:16
Interesting solution, thanks for sharing.

Of the 8 ships I have so far (Base set + KS Exclusives), not a single one stays firmly on the base... picking up the ship completely removes it from the base with no grip whatsoever. Not a huge deal, but annoying until I decide the best way to solve this.

To be honest, the useless base/stands that came with Wings of Glory were the #1 reason my group stopped playing that game.... the SoG system isn't perfect either, but already much better than WoG.

KeithS
01-27-2014, 13:26
I don't know if there is a real difference or if it is just my imagination but if I press the ship firmly down into the base the first wave ships (i.e. non-base or KS) seem to stay in place better than the base set ships.

Пилот
01-27-2014, 16:22
Erin,

thanks for sharing. Idea seems very usefull.

Mr Roberts
01-27-2014, 22:15
I actually glued the ship to the clear plate with white glue and it holds the ship nicely in place. If I want to change the ship card I just pull off the ship and clear plate, flip the card, and replace the ship/clear plate. The white glue holds well, but if I want to remove the ship from the clear plate I can with out damaging either one.

Gunner
01-27-2014, 22:37
I fill the base hole with Elmer's Tack ( removeable adhesive putty) then press the center of the ship to the clear plastic for a nice firm hold.

The Royal Hajj
01-28-2014, 08:39
Do not try to fix the ship to base problem, instead, realize there is no problem if you pick them up by the base.

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Actually, both of these work really well...



I fill the base hole with Elmer's Tack ( removeable adhesive putty) then press the center of the ship to the clear plastic for a nice firm hold.


I actually glued the ship to the clear plate with white glue and it holds the ship nicely in place. If I want to change the ship card I just pull off the ship and clear plate, flip the card, and replace the ship/clear plate. The white glue holds well, but if I want to remove the ship from the clear plate I can with out damaging either one.





To be honest, the useless base/stands that came with Wings of Glory were the #1 reason my group stopped playing that game.... the SoG system isn't perfect either, but already much better than WoG.

So you guys quit playing the game because the bases would fall of during play?? You do know there are multiple simple and cheap fixes for this right?

Naharaht
01-28-2014, 22:29
Has anyone tried using the 'Altitude glue' sold in the Anchorage store for 'Wings of Glory' pegs on the SoG bases yet, please?

Capn Duff
01-28-2014, 23:07
Yes I used the AA glue on my French SOL kickstarter exclusive.
I found it worked ok, but let the glue dry a bit before attaching to the base, I got a little glue on the clear plastic and it did melt a little, I wiped off immediately and little damage done but be wary.
Once dry my ship remained nicely attached to the base

longagoigo
01-29-2014, 03:56
I don't know if there is a real difference or if it is just my imagination but if I press the ship firmly down into the base the first wave ships (i.e. non-base or KS) seem to stay in place better than the base set ships.
Of the 6 ships I've unpacked 5 of them seem to have no problem staying connected after firmly pressing down on them. One of them wants to pop back up, but I prefer to handle them by the base anyway. As long as the seas aren't too stormy, there shouldn't be a problem.

Nightbomber
01-29-2014, 04:19
The ships' bases are far thicker and squared than WGF/WGS bases and thus much easier to lift up. I do not think it is necessary to take the ships by their masts:)

Holofernes
01-29-2014, 09:26
So you guys quit playing the game because the bases would fall of during play?? You do know there are multiple simple and cheap fixes for this right?

Yes - the fiddly nature of the WoG stands and bases irked my more casual players in the group just too much. And yes, I knew of the potential fixes (too late to re-interest the casuals!). I don't think it will be near as big an issue with the ships because A) they are closer to the play surface, B) a dab of rubber cement will 'solve' the problem and C) Ships are an easier sell to former PotSM players.

With us older guys who only get together to play once a month or less, a game only gets a few tries before people veto it. Having annoyances in the mechanics is often enough to vote a game 'off the island' pretty quickly, especially with so many other good games out there! Fair? Nope. But it is what it is

The Royal Hajj
01-29-2014, 10:39
Yes I used the AA glue on my French SOL kickstarter exclusive.
I found it worked ok, but let the glue dry a bit before attaching to the base, I got a little glue on the clear plastic and it did melt a little, I wiped off immediately and little damage done but be wary.
Once dry my ship remained nicely attached to the base

So the altitude glue started to melt the clear cover?? I'll need to test that. But yes, you should always let the altitude glue dry before joining the two parts.


Yes - the fiddly nature of the WoG stands and bases irked my more casual players in the group just too much. And yes, I knew of the potential fixes (too late to re-interest the casuals!). I don't think it will be near as big an issue with the ships because A) they are closer to the play surface, B) a dab of rubber cement will 'solve' the problem and C) Ships are an easier sell to former PotSM players.

With us older guys who only get together to play once a month or less, a game only gets a few tries before people veto it. Having annoyances in the mechanics is often enough to vote a game 'off the island' pretty quickly, especially with so many other good games out there! Fair? Nope. But it is what it is

Tough group!

BRIAN DUNBAR
01-30-2014, 01:09
I am adding a magnet to the bottom of the ship and a larger one underneath the tray.

Пилот
02-08-2014, 03:11
Magnets could be suitable solution, too.